Himalayas

Himalayas, Nepali Himalaya, great mountain system of Asia forming a barrier between the Plateau of Tibet to the north and the alluvial plains of the Indian subcontinent to the south. The Himalayas include the highest mountains in the world, with more than 110 peaks rising to elevations of 24,000 feet (7,300 metres) or more above sea level. One of those peaks is Mount Everest (Tibetan: Chomolungma; Chinese: Qomolangma Feng; Nepali: Sagarmatha), the world’s highest, with an elevation of 29,032 feet (8,849 metres; see Researcher’s Note: Height of Mount Everest. The mountains’ high peaks rise into the zone of perpetual snow.

 

Mount Everest

For thousands of years the Himalayas have held a profound significance for the peoples of South Asia, as their literature, mythologies, and religions reflect. Since ancient times the vast glaciated heights have attracted the attention of the pilgrim mountaineers of India, who coined the Sanskrit name Himalaya—from hima (“snow”) and alaya (“abode”)—for that great mountain system. In contemporary times the Himalayas have offered the greatest attraction and the greatest challenge to mountaineers throughout the world.

 

The ranges, which form the northern border of the Indian subcontinent and an almost impassable barrier between it and the lands to the north, are part of a vast mountain belt that stretches halfway around the world from North Africa to the Pacific Ocean coast of Southeast Asia. The Himalayas themselves stretch uninterruptedly for about 1,550 miles (2,500 km) from west to east between Nanga Parbat (26,660 feet [8,126 metres]), in the Pakistani-administered portion of the Kashmir region, and Namjagbarwa (Namcha Barwa) Peak (25,445 feet [7,756 metres]), in the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Between those western and eastern extremities lie the two Himalayan countries of Nepal and Bhutan. The Himalayas are bordered to the northwest by the mountain ranges of the Hindu Kush and the Karakoram and to the north by the high and vast Plateau of Tibet. The width of the Himalayas from south to north varies between 125 and 250 miles (200 and 400 km). Their total area amounts to about 230,000 square miles (595,000 square km).

 

Though India, Nepal, and Bhutan have sovereignty over most of the Himalayas, Pakistan and China also occupy parts of them. In the disputed Kashmir region, Pakistan has administrative control of some 32,400 square miles (83,900 square km) of the range lying north and west of the “line of control” established between India and Pakistan in 1972. China administers some 14,000 square miles (36,000 square km) in the Ladakh region and has claimed territory at the eastern end of the Himalayas within the Indian state of Arunachal Pradesh. Those disputes accentuate the boundary problems faced by India and its neighbours in the Himalayan region.

 

Physical Features

The most characteristic features of the Himalayas are their soaring heights, steep-sided jagged peaks, valley and alpine glaciers often of stupendous size, topography deeply cut by erosion, seemingly unfathomable river gorges, complex geologic structure, and series of elevational belts (or zones) that display different ecological associations of flora, fauna, and climate. Viewed from the south, the Himalayas appear as a gigantic crescent with the main axis rising above the snow line, where snowfields, alpine glaciers, and avalanches all feed lower-valley glaciers that in turn constitute the sources of most of the Himalayan rivers. The greater part of the Himalayas, however, lies below the snow line. The mountain-building process that created the range is still active. As the bedrock is lifted, considerable stream erosion and gigantic landslides occur.

 

The Himalayan ranges can be grouped into four parallel longitudinal mountain belts of varying width, each having distinct physiographic features and its own geologic history. They are designated, from south to north, as the Outer, or Sub-, Himalayas (also called the Siwalik Range); the Lesser, or Lower, Himalayas; the Great Himalaya Range (Great Himalayas); and the Tethys, or Tibetan, Himalayas. Farther north lie the Trans-Himalayas in Tibet proper. From west to east the Himalayas are divided broadly into three mountainous regions: western, central, and eastern.

 

Geologic History

Over the past 65 million years, powerful global plate-tectonic forces have moved Earth’s crust to form the band of Eurasian mountain ranges—including the Himalayas—that stretch from the Alps to the mountains of Southeast Asia.

 

During the Jurassic Period (about 201 to 145 million years ago), a deep crustal downwarp—the Tethys Ocean—bordered the entire southern fringe of Eurasia, then excluding the Arabian Peninsula and the Indian subcontinent. About 180 million years ago, the old supercontinent of Gondwana (or Gondwanaland) began to break up. One of Gondwana’s fragments, the lithospheric plate that included the Indian subcontinent, pursued a northward collision course toward the Eurasian Plate during the ensuing 130 to 140 million years. The Indian-Australian Plate gradually confined the Tethys trench within a giant pincer between itself and the Eurasian Plate. As the Tethys trench narrowed, increasing compressive forces bent the layers of rock beneath it and created interlacing faults in its marine sediments. Masses of granites and basalts intruded from the depth of the mantle into that weakened sedimentary crust. Between about 40 and 50 million years ago, the Indian subcontinent finally collided with Eurasia. The plate containing India was sheared downward, or subducted, beneath the Tethys trench at an ever-increasing pitch.

 

During the next 30 million years, shallow parts of the Tethys Ocean gradually drained as its sea bottom was pushed up by the plunging Indian-Australian Plate; that action formed the Plateau of Tibet. On the plateau’s southern edge, marginal mountains—the Trans-Himalayan ranges of today—became the region’s first major watershed and rose high enough to become a climatic barrier. As heavier rains fell on the steepening southern slopes, the major southern rivers eroded northward toward the headwaters with increasing force along old transverse faults and captured the streams flowing onto the plateau, thus laying the foundation for the drainage patterns for a large portion of Asia. To the south the northern reaches of the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal rapidly filled with debris carried down by the ancestral Indus, Ganges (Ganga), and Brahmaputra rivers. The extensive erosion and deposition continue even now as those rivers carry immense quantities of material every day.

 

Finally, some 20 million years ago, during the early Miocene Epoch, the tempo of the crunching union between the two plates increased sharply, and Himalayan mountain building began in earnest. As the Indian subcontinental plate continued to plunge beneath the former Tethys trench, the topmost layers of old Gondwana metamorphic rocks peeled back over themselves for a long horizontal distance to the south, forming nappes. Wave after wave of nappes thrust southward over the Indian landmass for as far as 60 miles (about 100 km). Each new nappe consisted of Gondwana rocks older than the last. In time those nappes became folded, contracting the former trench by some 250 to 500 horizontal miles (400 to 800 km). All the while, downcutting rivers matched the rate of uplift, carrying vast amounts of eroded material from the rising Himalayas to the plains where it was dumped by the Indus, Ganges, and Brahmaputra rivers. The weight of that sediment created depressions, which in turn could hold more sediment. In some places the alluvium beneath the Indo-Gangetic Plain now exceeds 25,000 feet (7,600 metres) in depth.

 

Probably only within the past 600,000 years, during the Pleistocene Epoch (roughly 2,600,000 to 11,700 years ago), did the Himalayas become the highest mountains on Earth. If strong horizontal thrusting characterized the Miocene and the succeeding Pliocene Epoch (about 23 to 2.6 million years ago), intense uplift epitomized the Pleistocene. Along the core zone of the northernmost nappes—and just beyond—crystalline rocks containing new gneiss and granite intrusions emerged to produce the staggering crests seen today. On a few peaks, such as Mount Everest, the crystalline rocks carried old fossil-bearing Tethys sediments from the north piggyback to the summits.

 

Once the Great Himalayas had risen high enough, they became a climatic barrier: the marginal mountains to the north were deprived of rain and became as parched as the Plateau of Tibet. In contrast, on the wet southern flanks the rivers surged with such erosive energy that they forced the crest line to migrate slowly northward. Simultaneously, the great transverse rivers breaching the Himalayas continued their downcutting in pace with the uplift. Changes in the landscape, however, compelled all but those major rivers to reroute their lower courses because, as the northern crests rose, so also did the southern edge of the extensive nappes. The formations of the Siwalik Series were overthrust and folded, and in between the Lesser Himalayas downwarped to shape the midlands. Now barred from flowing due south, most minor rivers ran east or west through structural weaknesses in the midlands until they could break through the new southern barrier or join a major torrent.

 

In some valleys, such as the Vale of Kashmir and the Kathmandu Valley of Nepal, lakes formed temporarily and then filled with Pleistocene deposits. After drying up some 200,000 years ago, the Kathmandu Valley rose at least 650 feet (200 metres), an indication of localized uplift within the Lesser Himalayas.

 

Physiography of The Himalayas

The Outer Himalayas comprise flat-floored structural valleys and the Siwalik Range, which borders the Himalayan mountain system to the south. Except for small gaps in the east, the Siwaliks run for the entire length of the Himalayas, with a maximum width of 62 miles (100 km) in the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. In general, the 900-foot (275-metre) elevation contour line marks their southern boundary; they rise an additional 2,500 feet (760 metres) to the north. The main Siwalik Range has steeper southern slopes facing the Indian plains and descends gently northward to flat-floored basins, called duns. The best-known of those is the Dehra Dun, in southern Uttarakhand state, just north of the border with northwestern Uttar Pradesh state.

 

To the north the Siwalik Range abuts a massive mountainous tract, the Lesser Himalayas. In that range, 50 miles (80 km) in width, mountains rising to 15,000 feet (4,500 metres) and valleys with elevations of 3,000 feet (900 metres) run in varying directions. Neighbouring summits share similar elevations, creating the appearance of a highly dissected plateau. The three principal ranges of the Lesser Himalayas—the Nag Tibba, the Dhaola Dhar, and the Pir Panjal—have branched off from the Great Himalaya Range lying farther north. The Nag Tibba, the most easterly of the three ranges, reaches an elevation of some 26,800 feet (8,200 metres) near its eastern end, in Nepal, and forms the watershed between the Ganges and Yamuna rivers in Uttarakhand.

 

To the west is the picturesque Vale of Kashmir, in Jammu and Kashmir union territory (the Indian-administered portion of Kashmir). A structural basin (i.e., an elliptical basin in which the rock strata are inclined toward a central point), the vale forms an important section of the Lesser Himalayas. It extends from southeast to northwest for 100 miles (160 km), with a width of 50 miles (80 km), and has an average elevation of 5,100 feet (1,600 metres). The basin is traversed by the meandering Jhelum River, which runs through Wular Lake, a large freshwater lake in Jammu and Kashmir northwest of Srinagar.

 

The backbone of the entire mountain system is the Great Himalaya Range, rising into the zone of perpetual snow. The range reaches its maximum height in Nepal; among its peaks are 10 of the 13 highest in the world, each of which exceeds 26,250 feet (8,000 metres) in elevation. From west to east those peaks are Nanga Parbat, Dhaulagiri 1, Annapurna 1, Manaslu 1, Xixabangma (Gosainthan), Cho Oyu, Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu 1, and Kanchenjunga 1.

 

The range trends northwest-southeast from Jammu and Kashmir to Sikkim, an old Himalayan kingdom that is now a state of India. East of Sikkim it runs east-west for another 260 miles (420 km) through Bhutan and the eastern part of Arunachal Pradesh as far as the peak of Kangto (23,260 feet [7090 metres]) and finally bends northeast, terminating at Namcha Barwa.

 

There is no sharp boundary between the Great Himalayas and the ranges, plateaus, and basins lying to the north of the Great Himalayas. Those are generally grouped together under the names of the Tethys, or Tibetan, Himalayas and the Trans-Himalayas, which extend far northward into Tibet. In Kashmir and in the Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, the Tethys are at their widest, forming the Spiti Basin and the Zaskar Range.

 

Drainage of the Himalayas

The Himalayas are drained by 19 major rivers, of which the Indus and the Brahmaputra are the largest, each having catchment basins in the mountains of about 100,000 square miles (260,000 square km) in extent. Five of the 19 rivers, with a total catchment area of about 51,000 square miles (132,000 square km), belong to the Indus system—the Jhelum, the Chenab, the Ravi, the Beas, and the Sutlej—and collectively define the vast region divided between Punjab state in India and Punjab province in Pakistan. Of the remaining rivers, nine belong to the Ganges system—the Ganges, Yamuna, Ramganga, Kali (Kali Gandak), Karnali, Rapti, Gandak, Baghmati, and Kosi rivers—draining roughly 84,000 square miles (218,000 square km) in the mountains, and three belong to the Brahmaputra system—the Tista, the Raidak, and the Manas—draining another 71,000 square miles (184,000 square km) in the Himalayas.

 

The major Himalayan rivers rise north of the mountain ranges and flow through deep gorges that generally reflect some geologic structural control, such as a fault line. The rivers of the Indus system as a rule follow northwesterly courses, whereas those of the Ganges-Brahmaputra systems generally take easterly courses while flowing through the mountain region.

 

To the north of India, the Karakoram Range, with the Hindu Kush range on the west and the Ladakh Range on the east, forms the great water divide, shutting off the Indus system from the rivers of Central Asia. The counterpart of that divide on the east is formed by the Kailas Range and its eastward continuation, the Nyainqêntanglha (Nyenchen Tangla) Mountains, which prevent the Brahmaputra from draining the area to the north. South of that divide, the Brahmaputra flows to the east for about 900 miles (1,450 km) before cutting across the Great Himalaya Range in a deep transverse gorge, although many of its Tibetan tributaries flow in an opposite direction, as the Brahmaputra may once have done.

 

The Great Himalayas, which normally would form the main water divide throughout their entire length, function as such only in limited areas. That situation exists because the major Himalayan rivers, such as the Indus, the Brahmaputra, the Sutlej, and at least two headwaters of the Ganges—the Alaknanda and the Bhagirathi—are probably older than the mountains they traverse. It is believed that the Himalayas were uplifted so slowly that the old rivers had no difficulty in continuing to flow through their channels and, with the rise of the Himalayas, acquired an even greater momentum, which enabled them to cut their valleys more rapidly. The elevation of the Himalayas and the deepening of the valleys thus proceeded simultaneously. As a result, the mountain ranges emerged with a completely developed river system cut into deep transverse gorges that range in depth from 5,000 to 16,000 feet (1,500 to 5,000 metres) and in width from 6 to 30 miles (10 to 50 km). The earlier origin of the drainage system explains the peculiarity that the major rivers drain not only the southern slopes of the Great Himalayas but, to a large extent, its northern slopes as well, the water divide being north of the crest line.

 

The role of the Great Himalaya Range as a watershed, nevertheless, can be seen between the Sutlej and Indus valleys for 360 miles (580 km); the drainage of the northern slopes is carried by the north-flowing Zaskar and Dras rivers, which drain into the Indus. Glaciers also play an important role in draining the higher elevations and in feeding the Himalayan rivers. Several glaciers occur in Uttarakhand, of which the largest, the Gangotri, is 20 miles (32 km) long and is one of the sources of the Ganges. The Khumbu Glacier drains the Everest region in Nepal and is one of the most popular routes for the ascent of the mountain. The rate of movement of the Himalayan glaciers varies considerably; in the neighbouring Karakoram Range, for example, the Baltoro Glacier moves about 6 feet (2 metres) per day, while others, such as the Khumbu, move only about 1 foot (30 cm) daily. Most of the Himalayan glaciers are in retreat, at least in part because of climate change.

 

Soils

The north-facing slopes generally have a fairly thick soil cover, supporting dense forests at lower elevations and grasses higher up. The forest soils are dark brown in colour and silt loam in texture; they are ideally suited for growing fruit trees. The mountain meadow soils are well developed but vary in thickness and in their chemical properties. Some of the wet deep upland soils of that type in the eastern Himalayas—for example, in the Darjiling (Darjeeling) Hills and in the Assam valley—have a high humus content that is good for growing tea. Podzolic soils (infertile acidic forest soils) occur in a belt some 400 miles (640 km) long in the valleys of the Indus and its tributary the Shyok River, to the north of the Great Himalaya Range, and in patches in Himachal Pradesh. Farther east, saline soils occur in the dry high plains of the Ladakh region. Of the soils that are not restricted to any particular area, alluvial soils (deposited by running water) are the most productive, though they occur in limited areas, such as the Vale of Kashmir, the Dehra Dun, and the high terraces flanking the Himalayan valleys. Lithosols, consisting of imperfectly weathered rock fragments that are deficient in humus content, cover many large areas at high elevations and are the least-productive soils.

 

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